kurdistan
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All hands on deck
Stories that fill this issue span everything from female freedom fighters in the Middle East to the retail gurus bringing back our love of in-person shopping.
Persian party
War left the Turkish city of Van bereft of visitors – but it’s being transformed by Iranians in search of the good life.
Looking on the bright side
Despite the Iraq war’s legacy, the Kurdish city of Sulaymaniyah offers a beacon of optimism through its flourishing music, journalism, art, and television scenes, proving hope can be found in unexpected places.
The road ahead
Waking from the nightmare of war, Iraq has ambitious plans to remodel its cities and infrastructure. The rebuilding isn’t purely a physical process – a new mindset is also being developed.
Peace and prosperity
While Mosul burns, Arbil booms: Iraqi Kurdistan's capital courts Western business, oil money and $110,000 cars, proving that autonomy, security and ancient trading instincts still pay dividends.
Expo 10: Istanbul to Van
Monocle boards the TransAsya Express, travelling from Istanbul as far as Van in Turkey's Kurdish east. This is the story of the people we met and the fascination that unites them: life in the…
Bids for freedom
There are always countries on the way in or out – breakaway states eager for independence or clamouring for reassimilation. This is the current crop of nations in waiting.
